Meguro-Ward is Tokyo’s neighbourhood where we feel most at home. Every day we keep looking for an excuse to go back for a stroll along the river at dusk. We’ve read about Beard and we already know we’re going to love it. At 6pm we go in. Chef Shin Harakawa puts down the chicken quarter he’s about to carve, smiles at us and invites us to come back, maybe tomorrow. He has a long tidy beard and is wearing a tucked up shirt under the apron. The room is painted in earthy warm tones and the kitchen is open plan. A tarte tatin is waiting to be served. The words "French" and “terroir” recur in the menu and in his CV. “He loves to travel, mainly to Europe and North America. Recently, he has a close connection to people in San Francisco”. Beard, we will come back tomorrow and any time we are back in Tokyo.
Words Paola Corini
Cover photo © Kinfolk
Translation Raffaella De Tommasi