Stockholm, Sweden

Jan 2015

It is old school. Heat, soot, ashes, smoke and fire as the only cooking method. Hours of embers smell. The sleeves of the check shirt are rolled up to set the quick hands free on minute courses. Birch, leather, copper, sandstone, wood. Growing up between north and south, from Jämtland to Skåne. Inventing an astonishing Scandinavian cuisine and serving it à la minute in a fairy-tale dance of miniature cups, pans and chopping boards. We wish future gastronomy were like this – a tree with a hardy, reassuring trunk and new, dazzling and hypnotizing branches. We entered a glass door in an anonymous street in the city of Stockholm, and it led us to seas, forests, meadows and fields in the whole of Sweden. The effect is not of an extremely appropriate service in a star-awarded restaurant, but of an introduction by brilliant men in a magic living picture that comes to life only in here, perhaps every night. Thanks to Chef Ekstedt and his sommelier, Mr Maximilien Mellfors, both ambitious only in the noble sense of the word.




7 Courses

Baby octopus with parsley

Entrecôte flambadou with oysters and salad prepared on the fire

Salted and dried venison with bone marrow and vendace roe

Sweetbread with smoked vendace roe and apple

Juniper baked cod with onions, almonds and chanterelles

Pig burned in hay with brussel sprouts and blood

Socca with cloudberries, forest ice cream and caramel



Words Paola Corini

Translation Alessia Andriolo


Cover Photo: Sour dough waffle with cloudberries and pastry cream with orange and juniper by PA Jorgensen

Photos © Simon Bajada, PA Jorgensen



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