Essaouira is immersed in a surreal atmosphere of seagulls crying and flying over the port and fish stalls surrounded by small angry cats. The air smells of sardines and Atlantic wind; you know you are close to the sea. Walking through the narrow streets of the medina, you arrive at 1 Rue d’Agadir. Go through the open door, climb the old staircase with mosaic tile floor and wooden handle and you’ve arrived at the Elizir restaurant. It’s a magical spot that takes you back to the ‘60s. The music from their collection of old records and albums on vinyl plays in the background to create the perfect atmosphere (the sweetest Tom Waits was playing for us). The living room and the two dining rooms have vintage décor. There’s a fireplace and some old televisions, magazines and postcards. The tables are covered in brown chenille tablecloths matched with light cotton napkins with a ‘70s print. The ricotta gnocchi with almond pesto, the pumpkin soup with saffron and the pear pie are unforgettable. The owner used to live in Italy and will welcome you heart-warmingly.