Whoever decides to tell Rosio Sanchéz’s story will have to start from the phone call during which René Redzepi offered her a job as Noma’s confectioner. She begins, instead, from her childhood in Chicago and her precocious passion for sweets, which has its origin in a family kitchen where Mexico and the USA met. Both her star-awarded desserts and her gourmet tacos originated there. We listen to her sitting at the tables of the taquería she opened in a former warehouse in Vesterbro. She wants to offer uncommon flavours to the city – a Mecca of the New Nordic Cuisine. ‘The secret lies in the tortilla’, which has to be handmade with excellent Mexican corn. It is then stretched and perfectly cooked to hold either fried fjord shrimp, garlic-chili oil, cabbage, guacachile and avocado; crispy fish skin, gooseberry salsa and cilantro; or spit roasted pork and pineapple.
Words Laura Taccari, pictures Paolo Barbi, translation Alessia Andriolo