This small comfortable eatery in Soho holds "Udon culture" and the art of cooking and serving udon noodles. To us, who have just come back from Japan, the concept of simplicity expressed by this big spaghetti in its elegant broth (Dashi) is immediate and only admits hot or cold versions, and a delicious variety of side dishes. Try Kinoki Hiya-Atsu, the vegetarian version – cold udon in hot broth with Asian mushrooms and hazelnut miso – and an excellent tempura of fish and vegetables (Tendon) on rice. Noodles Save the Planet!
Words Paola Corini
Translation Alessia Andriolo
Cover Photo: Junya Yamasaki of Koya. Photograph: Pål Hansen/the Observer Food Monthly