To us, Trippa is the essential restaurant in Milan. Chef Diego always comes and greets us at our table with the assurance of a person who has the kitchen under control, then leaves saying ‘come and say goodbye when you’re done’. The same mood fills the whole room. The staff are carefree but attentive, happy to have you at their tables, and aware that they are serving a straightforward Italian menu – veal with tuna sauce, Fassona beef tartare with hazelnuts, dried cod with cabbage, tripe, tart with citrus marmalade – though its presentation is quite new: classic but modern dishes, generous but graceful portions. There is a wonderful balance at Trippa. It rests in declaring itself an Italian trattoria and having the consequent openness, honesty (about prices, too) and lightness, and at the same time in raising itself high above the ‘settling for’ which is inherent in old and new taverns. Trippa is not the bulwark of a meat-free cuisine – how could it be, since its name means ‘tripe’? However, the Italian rural tradition – and Trippa – do not lack daily soups with pulses and cereals, season vegetables and wild herbs.
Words Paola Corini. Translation Alessia Andriolo