Estancia Candelaria del Monte

The Pampas, Argentina

Feb 2013

Text Paola Corini

Listen: Patrick Watson, Wooden Arms

Driving towards San Miguel del Monte, just outside Buenos Aires is like trying to get out of Milan on a Friday night driving on the multiple-lane main road packed with cars that are stuck or barely moving forward. For an Italian, the landscape is not dissimilar from the countryside of the Emilia region. You can feel tired and disappointed that you are not in a completely unspoiled land.

However for us, reaching the gate of Sebastian Goni’s Estancia was an experience well worth waiting for. We got there just before the night completely switched off the deep yellow sky at sunset and the colors of the countryside. In that moment we thought we saw the outline of two horse-riders riding elegant horses in the endless land, towards an unknown place beyond a tree-lined path. Then an old farmer accompanied by his dog came out and welcomed us. “We were expecting you in the afternoon” he said.

The house is as majestic as the land around it; inside is quiet and magic. The rooms are elegant and bohemian, the colors saturated and the prints on the tapestry delicately feminine.

The rhythm is slow and scanned by indulging activities: long breakfasts on the verandah, quiet readings, fruit smoothies by the pool, horse riding, meeting up in the verandah, polo lessons, shared meals around the big oval kitchen table, chats after dinner, slow walks along the long corridor back to your room for an afternoon nap or a good night sleep.



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