Listen to: Peter Sarstedt, Where Do You Go To My Lovely (1969)
Seldovia is a wilder version of Halibut Cove. It sits on deep green and mysterious sparkling waters. You have to check the tide before you start walking toward Outside Beach. The old boardwalk is melancholic and peaceful. You’re surrounded by colourful wooden cabins (red, turquoise, blue) built on pilings over the slough and flowers, and can spot eagles and seagulls. Even on a rainy day, Seldovia is magical. In the morning, the paths in the forest are muddy with plenty of wild berries to pick. As you’re surrounded by deep green giant leaves and orange spotty mushrooms, you feel like Alice in Wonderland.
Suzie and Jerry own the most beautiful cottage on the old boardwalk and rent it out to visitors. Suzie looks after her plants, as well as the communal gardens of Small Seldovia. If you’re staying at Waterfront Cottage you won’t know which room to choose. From all of them you can get a beautiful glimpse of the pine forest and the sea. Every detail is thoroughly thought through: old globes and maps, ice skating boots, oil lanterns, vintage suitcases, wooden eagles and fish, oars, soft teddy bears, books, The Beatles CDs, sea stars and shells, nautical wallpaper and floral quilts. It’s a cozy and almost familiar place that reminds of the summerhouse you have always dreamed of when you were young. You can get lost in it, looking for all the artifacts the classy women of the family have accumulated throughout the years. Located in the most remote and hippie area in Alaska.
Amon’s Coffee House, Gallery and Gifts opens daily at 10am. Residents arrive by canoe to the small pebble-sand beach. A blond two-year old, bare foot, with green shorts and a linen sweater, comes to open the gate. Him mum is in the café. Today she’s cooked a quiche with polenta crust and mushrooms and small cakes displayed in a glass cloche. Cupcakes with purple topping, banana bread bars, vegan bars with almonds and chocolate. She’s like a blond fairy wearing an apron with owls and attends her customers with a smile. This café is also a gallery and curiosity shop, selling prints from local artists, books, DVDs, soaps, teas, jewels and other small objects. An exclusive place, together rustic and naïf.
Words Paola Corini
Photos Luca De Santis
Translation Raffaella De Tommasi