Text and Photo: Laura Taccari
As soon as you get out of your car you feel the desire to stay. You want to take in all that is around you: the sea, the craggy limestone formations and the myriad shades of grey. You sense the perfection of nature and the skill of man, so brave to bet on such a wild untamed land. You find the secluded pier, the path among the trees, and you imagine the narrow beach behind them. You wish you were one of those blond kids playing with pebbles so that you would have discovered this place years ago or one of those trees among which the kids are playing as they don’t have any other option than to stay. The check-in is quick. You don’t need any documents, just smiles, theirs and ours.
-It’s not been easy to get here. The sat-nav couldn’t find the address-.
-Of course, it’s because this place doesn’t exist-.
You can borrow one of the solid bicycles made available to the guests and go for a short adventure in the surrounding area. Kids are entertained by a rocking horse at the entrance. The sun starts going down and the sky becomes opaque. In the restaurant, lanterns are shimmering next to the plates, the waiters wearing long anthracite aprons take superb dishes to the tables with a smile on their face, lamps made of tulle hang from the ceiling. Your meal starts with “whipped butter” to spread on crunchy thin bread. The fish of the day is served on thick ceramic bowls the same colour of the aprons and it comes with pink prawns, potatoes with skin, stewed turnips, veils of radish, horseradish and eggs from the henhouse opposite the beach. Our room is called “studio” but is big enough for a large family. It includes a kitchen, a stereo, a cast-iron fireplace and logs to burn, a long dinner table, two sofas and two armchairs, warm plaids, Hastens luxury beds, duvets with a white and blue check print, pillows as soft as cloud and views over the deserted surrounding landscape. Breakfast is exceptional. Homemade jams with whole berries that you almost struggle to spread on the warm bread, a cheese board, and tasty milk like you won’t find in the city. We cook pancakes and potatoes in the cast-iron pan on a slow fire. The locals advise us on how to cook them. Then, we take our wood trays outside and sit down. It’s going to be a beautiful day.