Santa Maria belongs to Baunei, Ogliastra – the central east Sardinia we feel ours like a twin brother. The thick green Lanthia pine forest filters the hazel colour of the semilunar beach that keeps reminding us of some Malay island and of a strong, wild, magnetic nature. At 7 pm, the water looks like the most beautiful azure silk – our eyes are bright with joy – and the small islands scattered in the sea turn gold. The rough and beautiful Supramonte, the Golgo plateau and its wild boars, the 500 sweaty metres to get to look over the turquoise of Cala Goritzé, the crazy wind in Pedralonga, and the sheep bells, remind us where we are. Sardinia, the continent’s island…
It is the end of May and, in the terraced garden, cabbages grow huge and indigo like in fairy-tales. Bastiana wears the traditional long black skirt. ‘My mother used to wear it all the time – the Sunday best and the everyday one – always the same long black skirt, in summer as in winter’. Franca holds the small wicker basket that smells like wood and bread croissants filled with pistachio mortadella. ‘I had some spare dough, so I made bread croissants. I know you had lunch already, but taste one anyway’. Fresh wild-fennel ravioli with milk cream are Giovanna’s secret recipe, and we are already proud of it, even though we have been here only a few hours. To Giovanna (Palimodde, daughter of Pasqua and Peddeddu, the illuminated family who invented and hands down the Su Gologone project), her father was a king (Su Re), but Su Gologone remains a matriarchal reign, as in the truest Barbagia tradition – a village of jolly motherly female presence in a state of grace. Holy water stoups, glazed china, wefts and trimmings, rooms and halls – an ancient charm, like the Sirens to Ulysses…
by Luca De Santis
Luca loves traveling to discover wonders. He loves to give space to diversity. Luca loves to stay. He loves everything that becomes ritual and is handed down from father to son. (Luca, Meraviglia Paper Creative Director is also art director, photographer and video maker).
by Paola Corini
Paola loves the sun when it’s not too strong, the smell of herbs, the colour combination of Botswana’s Lilac-breasted Roller, freshly baked bread, mountain air, people who smile, words and summer fruit. Up to one year ago writing and traveling were the extraordinary, yet in 2013 she founded Meraviglia Paper together with Laura and became a self-assured Travel Editor. She keeps thinking that traveling in this world is extraordinary, magical, and essential.