Sudtirolo

Berghoferin

Berghoferin

South Tyrol, Italy

Radein is a wonderful cul-de-sac. The curvy road ends between the mountain church and the school. We are over 1500 m, up the Adige Valley, along the Dolomites road, through the magic southern landscape with fertile valleys and mountains high above the woods. Here in Radein there is a classic sixties’ mountain hotel, which in fact is not just classic. At Berghoferin, vivid and dull greens, citron yellows, intense coral reds, plain mountain wools, and soft checks live together in a euphoria typical of youth but with a wisdom and measure acquired with age…

IsiHütte

IsiHütte

South Tyrol, Italy

IsiHütte is the refreshment malga on the Oclini Pass at 1850 m. Young Isolde renovated the ancient hayloft and, since December 2009, she lays the tables in the perfect indoor veranda and terrace on the Schwarzhorn. It is a joy to us. Dishes are generous as they should be in a mountain malga, ‘honest’ (corn, flour, eggs and vegetables are strictly ‘homemade’) and beautiful like the new young want them. The three Knödel (beetroot, cheese, and spinach), the fettuccine with venison meat sauce, and the apple strudel with wholemeal flour reach every table. In the city, everybody talks about tenacious Isi, her small house in the nature and her tasty cuisine.

Gasthof Krone

Gasthof Krone

South Tyrol, Italy

This summer we visit the lowland of the Adige valley, because its simple nature reminds us of the Alaskan woods, and because here the cult of cuisine is widespread. At the end of the 19th century, ancient farm holdings became inns, then excellent mountain hotels. The grandmothers of the present owners went ‘a cucina’ (to learn cooking) at their own grandmothers’, and learnt whatever could be learnt. The Krone inn is renowned – both nearby and far away – for its delicacies served in the pacific terrace and in the beautiful 16th century lukewarm dining rooms, where the clergy-house bells toll. Herbs cream with flowers powder, salted Knödel with cheese, sweet apricot Knödel with cinnamon-flavoured breadcrumbs, traditional soups that smell like wine and juniper…

Johnson & Dipoli

Johnson & Dipoli

South Tyrol, Italy

Fresh porticoes, the large green doors of an ancient saddlery, a luxuriant fig tree that adds shadow and green, small round old-style bar tables, silver cutlery, a tasty goat-cheese and tomato tart, rosé wine in a flute glass, along with the chats and hours of a pure Provençal bistro – all this can be found in Neumarkt, Egna, a small town midway between Trent and Bolzano. A former crossroads of trades and professions, it still is the square of the inhabitants of the Adige valley, who scatter in the fresh meadows above during summer. Sitting in the wine shop like a native on a Saturday for the 12 o’clock lunch is a sweet and original experience after a few days stay in the mountains. The snapshot of a secret story involving Italy and the Adige valley. Thanks to Berghoferin for taking us here.

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