At Rocco’s we put our researches on hold, stop writing, and avoid investigating the history of a place and a menu that are perfectly spontaneous and graceful. As when you meet the ladylike face of a little girl. We take note of all that goodness and promise and do not ask anything more. A big squared blackboard displays season ingredients and goliardic recipes (we are in Rome) made with respect, both written in a model-student writing. Since it is spring, we order stewed peas, white onions au gratin, soft eggs with asparagus, panned chicory, sour black cherry and ricotta tart. Side dishes are not called ‘side dishes’ and you love them as much as the main courses. The recipes of cakes and desserts remain a female custom. In Rione Monti, two uphill windows on Via Giovanni Lanza, a country still life in rose shades, a line of small wooden tables and chairs in the sun, as if it was a summer in Southern France. Who suggested us this place has a nose for subtle findings.

Words Paola Corini, photographs Meraviglia Paper.