One hundred and sixty-three square kilometres of land rising from the ocean, 3,000 kilometres off Chile’s western coast. Even the most basic geography makes it clear that Rapa Nui is not a place where one should expect the ordinary. Add to that the unsolved mysteries of its moai—the iconic statues scattered across the island—and of the rongorongo script, still undeciphered to this day, and the sense of wonder becomes inevitable. Easter Island—as it was renamed by Dutch explorer Jacob Roggeveen, who arrived here in 1722 on Easter Sunday—is not a tropical holiday in the conventional sense. And that is precisely what makes it so irresistible. We land after a five-hour flight from Santiago de Chile. At the airport, a garland of bright hibiscus flowers is placed around our necks, and then we set off towards paradise. Straight red-earth roads, intensely blue skies and impossibly green pastures. Wild horses wander peacefully along the roadside, their blond tails swishing as they graze on untouched grass. Explora Rapa Nui sits perched on a cliff a few kilometres outside Hanga Roa. Its architecture blends seamlessly with the island’s ancestral volcanic landscape: a collection of minimalist wood and stone structures designed by José Cruz Ovalle. Large windows frame the surrounding grasslands and the endless ocean beyond. Here, nothing is superficial. The luxury is one of substance: healthy and flavourful meals, exceptionally comfortable beds, binoculars and maps available for guests, scientists and researchers with whom to share a cup of tea, and a jacuzzi where to unwind after a day of exploration. The true luxury lies in the excursions. Every day unfolds through visits to archaeological sites, hikes and boat trips. At sunset, we find ourselves in the village, sharing a beer with locals and watching surfers ride the waves until darkness finally falls—even for the most experienced among them. After dinner, guests gather to exchange stories. Conversations flow, connections are made, friendships begin.

The first site our guide wants to show us is Ahu One Makihi, with its enormous fallen moai. Then we climb towards Tongariki, discovering the history of Rapa Nui’s largest ahu, an ancient ceremonial platform. Next comes the volcanic crater of Rano Raraku, the legendary quarry where the statues were carved. It was here that a team of Chilean researchers recently reported the discovery of a new giant moai at the bottom of the lake, revealed after an exceptionally dry period. Around four hundred moai remain here in various stages of completion: some are still in their earliest form, attached to the living rock from which they were carved; others lie overturned, as if abandoned halfway through their journey; others are only partially emerged from the earth. Another day is dedicated to the north of the island, following the coastline through fishermen’s coves, archaeological sites and the beach of Ovahe, before reaching Anakena—the closest thing Rapa Nui has to a classic tropical beach. Coconut palms sway lazily in the breeze, and small kiosks serve beer and ceviche. We slow down, swim and relax, protected by the statues of the island’s ancient kings. Anakena is also known as “The King’s Bay”, because this is where Hotu Matu’a, the Polynesian king, is believed to have landed between the 12th and 13th centuries AD, leading the first human expedition to reach this still-pristine island.

Trip organised by Explora Rapa Nui and Ruta 40, a travel design agency based in Turin specialising in remote and extraordinary explorations.

Words Laura Taccari, pictures Meraviglia Paper and Explora Rapa Nui.