In the early 20th century, a British visionary named Thomas Cook had been taking English aristocracy to the archaeological sites of Upper Egypt for dozens of years, paving the way for modern travelers. Along with Egypt and Arabia, Sudan was part of the fleet designed by Cook and Son (London), equipped with the cutting-edge technology of the time and the century-long experience of British shipbuilding. As soon as we board, we listen to Director Amir while sipping karkadé (hibiscus and lemon juice) in the boat’s large hall, surrounded by impeccable wood paneling and polished brass. We meet our fellow travelers and the Egyptologist, who immediately reveals the excursions he has planned at each port in his academic Italian. The Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens; the Temple of Ramses III at Medinet Habu and the Temple of Edfu, both almost completely preserved; the Temple of Kôm Ombo, unusually dedicated to two gods, the falcon god Haroeris and the crocodile god Sobek; the Philae Temple, a tribute to the goddess Isis, the supreme mother who dominates life, death, and resurrection.

Early in the morning, on the main deck on the starboard side, we admire the profile of the western bank emerging from pastel-colored clouds. A dull shifting pink predominates, a color we saw in the desert, beyond the fields to the northwest of the city. Hot-air balloons rise into the sky, and some decorated fishing boats alter the rhythm of the waves. In our experience, sunrise in Ancient Thebes is unparalleled, both in the East and the West. After breakfast, we head to the sun deck. We watch the landscape’s colors grow more intense as we proceed further into the continent. It’s a world of green, blue, and sand. Remote villages and deserted bays. Children diving into the water and waving to us euphorically. Tea is served every day at 5 p.m., along with honey sweets and dates.

Sailing by night towards Edfu, we reach the Esna lock. We are all at the bow, among the lights of a new harbor, watching the captain and the mooring staff skillfully guide the boat past it. It’s a special evening, with a “Black tie” dress code. In the main hall, we will watch ‘Death on the Nile’, written aboard by Agatha Christie. Heading towards Aswan, the rural banks of the valley give way to dunes and the marshes of Nubia, a land rich in precious wood and ivory.

In 2000, two managers from Voyageurs du Monde discovered the Steam Ship Sudan in disuse and restored it to its former glory in six months. Words and images by Meraviglia Paper.

Words and pictures Meraviglia Paper.