When we arrived, it was already dark, and the village was asleep. Only the sound of the brook murmuring and the scent of wood burning in the fireplaces. On the façade of the house, we read a plaque: “If I weren’t this house, I’d be that lake.” It’s a permanent work by the young German artist Fiete Stolte. Ladina welcomed us with a gentle smile and invited us to sit in the piano room, with The Lion’s Roar by the Swedish folk duo First Aid Kit playing in the background. Few outsiders make it this far: those who go beyond St. Moritz usually stop in Samedan, Bever, perhaps La Punt-Chamues-ch, or at most Zuoz. But S-chanf is a village of pure enchantment, a narrow street lined with original houses from the seventeenth century. Villa Flor is special because it’s atypical for the region: a traditional patrician home in neoclassical style with Art Nouveau details, built in 1904. The interiors evoke style, sophistication, and contemporaneity. Art is everywhere. It has seven rooms, each with its own unique character. You’ll leave without knowing which one was your favorite.

Parole Meraviglia Paper, pictures Omar Sartor.