In Tórshavn, the archipelago’s capital, for dinner you go downtown, literary. In the short drive from the hills to the harbour it’s still light. If you think you’ve experienced Nordic hippy Romanticism in all its forms, wait until you see Tinganes and the Old Town. They will become your new romantic spots. Áarstova is a small historical corner house with grass roof. You will fall for its fairy-tale look straight away. It’s a classic restaurant that blends tradition, elegance and unique flavours. We had langoustine bisque, served in a white tureen, baked potatoes, exquisite French red, and braised lamb; the best ever. This well known address is already one of our favourites. Coup de coeur in Tórshavn.
At Barbara Fish House, you feel like a message in a bottle in familiar waters. This adorable tiny fish bistro sits opposite Áarstova. Salt flakes in shells, thick crunchy French sliced bread, homemade mayo, Royal Copenhagen vintage china, fragrant homemade bouillabaisse and warm marzipan pear pie. The waiters continuously appear and disappear through a loft wooden staircase. An elderly man helps his wife with her night-blue coat. Old fashion elegance and surreal magic: a world to peek into through the tiny white windows, your nose against the glass.
There must be a consolidated agreement between the capital Tórshavn and the Koks restaurant, to repeat almost three hours of amazing natural and human genius every evening. Each table is in the first row and each diner has the certainty of having the best view of the two marinas and the changing water of the bay. The ritual of dinner at Koks resembles the highest Japanese cuisine, only with the melancholy of the colors of the Great North and the personality of the raw materials of a place that is island, ocean and pasture. Being able to eat what is served is negligible, at least half of the experience is consumed in thinking and assimilating how chef Poul Andrias Ziska has been able to experiment with the idea of an element. Land and sea alternate in a celestial, wild, timeless dance.
Words Meraviglia Paper. Pictures courtesy of Koks by Chris Tornese. Grazie a Visit Faroe Islands e Súsanna E. Sørensen.